Jason Lock's forum posts
Total number of forum posts: 40
At touch alluvial?
from
Clive - sounds like you have a silty soil very fine particles which would be dust in dry weather yet form a real stick slop when wet - slightly alluvial? Organic Matter is the buzz word, get some compost into the soil, horticultural grit and anything else that practically comes to had, leaf mould would be good as well - will require dedication and hard work but I am sure you will be rewarded with your efforts.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
Good Luck
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 21:20
What about a Cercis?
from
What about Cercis canadensis Forest Pansy? its a great tree, will tolerate a light soil and has good autumn colour as well as spring/early summer interest flowering on the bare stems. Having a purple foliage it will also add interest through the growing season.
What you have asked is quite a complex question and actually quite difficult to answer, its one of those need to see the site to really give a complete answer, but hope this helps.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 21:14
Gardeners Napalm
from
Bite the bullet - if its that bad go for the big guns, assuming you are not an organic gardener!? - use a Glyphosate based total herbicide (usually sold as Roundup) and you should after a period of treatment rid yourself of this problem. Remember though to use these chemicals wisely and always always read the instructions.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 20:31
......Decking?
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Gillian,
Hi any hard landscaping can be costly particularly if you have to break out existing materials first, Anna is quite right you could use a tar Spray and Shingle but it would depend on how sound the paths are first. Another solution may be to use timber decking on the paths? This would work if they are not too intricate and be a relatively cost effective solutions as you could leave the concrete in place.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 20:20
Not so Dwarf
from
Most dwarf Acers are not so dwarf at Wakehurst Place the sister garden to Wisley they had an Acer palmatum Dissectum, which most people believe is a dwarf Acer, not so this one, you could have driven a car under the canopy - agree it was way old, but not all that is dwarf, IS dwarf.
I would try making a raised bed from bamboo canes or banking up soil with vcareful placed rocks - rember though Oriental philosophy dictates that rocks like in nature should be arranged in odd numbers, and graduate in height based on triangles. Build using on this basis and you'll get the right effects.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 20:13
The Bible for Small Gardens
from
Try John Brookes 'The Small Garden' I was weaned on this book and it has inspired many garden designers all over the world. All I would say is Circles Circles and more Circles. A circular lawn creates magic for a small garden and often induces the tardis effect.
Give it a try.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 20:05
Planning Permission!!!
from
Agree with Mark 200% this is often a great way to use an old Paddock - also consider planting trees to frame views and block out unsightly buildings or power lines etc......BUT remember if you make the space too ornamental you may fall foul of the Planners (Bless them!) you may need to apply for change of use from agricultural to domestic.
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 20:01
100 or 50 watt!
from
Kim
Hi - It is early for spring bulbs to be emerging - what was it that you planted? Also what depth did you plant?
Can you be more specific?
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 19:57
Modern Shrub Roses - My Favorites
from
Good evening, depending on how old the roses are these should transplant with relative ease but I would wait until November before you undertake this.
Firstly, though thoroughly prepare the area where they are being planted by incorporating if you can get it well rotted manure - preferably mixed farmyard, also add a little rose fertiliser.
Trim the roses back prior to lifting taking out the weak, diseased, old growth and trim the stronger growth to form a good bowl shape removing laterals ro within 150mm of the main stems. Lift using a fork or spade trying to take as much root as possible and replant in the new positions. Mix the soil well and back fill firming to reduce the chance of air pockets water in and basically JOB DONE!
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 19:46
Costa del East Anglia
from
Clive,
Snap! I too live in East Anglia and have enjoyed a long hot summer unlike the rest of the country, unfortunately it has taken its toll on lawns particularly if you are east of the A12 where you are most certainly on pure sand if North of Woodbridge.
Lawns are tough plants, and I say plants as lawns are of course made up of thousands if not millions of individual plants which knit together to form a lawn.
Once we start to get some moisture from the damp dewy mornings and cooler nights and of course from rain lawns will recover, but to help it what I would do is in the first week of November treat it with a low nitrogen lawn feed (not weed and feed), apply a half dose over the lawn and then followed up by a further half dose 2 weeks later. I would also look out for weeds and hand pull these if practical to do so as weeds as ever are opportunists and will try and muscle i when your lawns defences are down.
Come the Spring give it a blast with a high Nitrogen feed (not weed and feed) and then continue to feed every 6- 8 weeks through the season finishing the last feed at the end of July, unlit time for the November feed.
Failing that a knapsack spray with green dye will work wonders!
Jason Lock MSGD
http://www.deakinlock.co.uk
http://www.landscaper.org.uk
http://www.sgd.org.uk
- Posted: Wed. 23rd September 2009 19:40
"I think I am becoming a little obsessed with Shoot, I can't fault it."
