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Search Results for "Sage"


General post from Catherine Tanser

In forum: Allotments

This is a message to Shoot. I am surprised and puzzled that Shoot does not recognize such a common plant as Euonymous.

  • Posted: Thu. 17th March 2011 21:26

Good Garden Plants

Comment from Gary Newell

In forum: My Favourite Plant

So i have been working with plants for nearly 10 years now and im constantly getting messages back from customers about those plants that they value the most the types of plant that just keep giving and giving. With the winters we are getting now it has become really important to gardeners to know what plants they can rely on, so if you have any great plants that dont let you down then please let me know.

  • Posted: Wed. 9th March 2011 13:19

Re: Hardy but attractive wind-resistant plants?

Message from Linda Regel

In forum: General

Dear Raileisure,
I think you would have to look at something other than the traditional bedding plants, which are more suited to kinder conditions.
Grasses would be a good starting place. Stipa tenuissima is lime green, soft and feathery and made to blow in the wind. (Photo attached) Festuca glauca is small and blue grey; look for ones that like a dry site - some of them prefer moist dappled shade.
Herbs might do well - thyme is low growing, out of the wind, rosemary to add height, sage is pretty tough.
Sempervivums or houseleeks are cactus like, and low maintenance, and structurally interesting - I like patting the flat mats of rosettes. They are also supposed to protect your house from lightning so could be useful!
Good luck

  • Posted: Mon. 21st February 2011 09:31

Container Growing

Question from Jane K

In forum: Container gardening

Previous message wrongly identified as a Tip, rather than a Question.

  • Posted: Sat. 1st January 2011 20:19

Re: Re: Uncinia egmontiana

Message from Dave Jones

In forum: Uncinia egmontiana

Yes, Kathy, I agree about the short viability. This year I have tried another batch and have, again, sowed as soon as they arrived. Here's hoping I get success again.
Incidently, I have updated the Teucrium message, with details of successful germination.

  • Posted: Tue. 23rd November 2010 18:01

copyright infringement!!!

Comment from paulbarden

In forum: Rosa 'Claire Rose'

I sent a message to Shoot management several days ago about the fact that this photo of Claire Rose is posted on this Web site without attribution, and which was posted here without my permission. It is taken from my Web site without my knowledge and is an infringement on my copyright of this image. Please remove this photo immediately.

Paul Barden

  • Posted: Tue. 23rd November 2010 16:10


Comment from paulbarden

In forum: Rosa 'Cardinal de Richelieu'

I sent a message to Shoot management several days ago about the fact that this photo of Cardinal de Richelieu is posted on this Web site without attribution, and which was posted here without my permission. It is taken from my Web site without my knowledge and is an infringement on my copyright of this image. Please remove this photo immediately.

Paul Barden

  • Posted: Tue. 23rd November 2010 16:08


Comment from paulbarden

In forum: Rosa 'Climbing Mrs Sam McGredy'

I sent a message to Shoot management several days ago about the fact that this photo of Mrs. Sam McGredy is posted on this Web site without attribution, and which was posted here without my permission. It is taken from my Web site without my knowledge and is an infringement on my copyright of this image. Please remove this photo immediately.

Paul Barden

  • Posted: Tue. 23rd November 2010 16:04

Re: Re: Any other topics we should add?

Message from Nicola

In forum: New member

Hi Brian - thanks for the message. Now added a new forum section called Greenhouse

  • Posted: Sat. 20th November 2010 20:09

Re: modify post

Message from Nicola

In forum: New member

Hi John - for some reason I missed this one before. You can edit your post for a period of time (I think it is 30 mins) after you first post it. Stay logged in and open the forum message and look at the bottom of the post and there is an edit link. Hope this helps!

  • Posted: Sat. 20th November 2010 20:08

Re: Autumn/Winter Gardening & fruit plant

Message from Marissa Zoppellini

In forum: Recommended gardening books

Hi, There are a few things you could be putting in now veg-wise but you would have to wait until late-spring/ early summer to harvest them. Onion sets, garlic and broad beans are regular autumn sowing items, I would also sow winter peas, winter cos lettuce, Japenese leaves and corn salad (personally, I sow these in pots or trays and transplant out). You may also get away with flat leaved parsley which I find gets by in the cold here in London where I live. Autumn is a great time for shrub planting, so Rosemary and Sage could go in, but make sure they have good drainage over winter.

With regard to Pears, the size is determined by the rootstock the plant is growing on rather than the cultivar and you should get this information from your supplier.

I hope this helps, all the best, Marissa

  • Posted: Thu. 23rd September 2010 12:14

Cutting back and dividing plants

Question from Sheila Clark

In forum: Lilium 'White Butterflies'

I am new to gardening and have planted some whirling butterflies, verbena, peroskvia (russian sage) and some grasses. They are all getting a bit big now and I would like to cut them back but am not sure how to do this and am a bit scared incase I kill them. Could you please advise.
Many thanks,
Sheila Clark.

  • Posted: Sun. 19th September 2010 15:16

Re: Day light v Shade

Message from Valerie Munro

In forum: General

Hi Patricia

I think that you pose a very interesting question!

Without getting too complicated, I think that it is the effects of the midday sun that this label information alludes to. All plants need light to survive, but some are tough enough to tolerate the heat of the hottest part of the day.

So if a plant label calls for dappled shade, part shade, etc then you can be sure that early morning sun, or late afternoon sun will not be detrimental to the plant, but if it gets the blast of high summer 11am-3pm, it might be a different story.

Where light does play more of a role is in the actual length of daylight rather than the heat of the sun. Some plants will get the trigger message that it is time to flower when daylight hours drop below 8. The classic plant here is the Christmas plant poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). This is called a short day plant. Other plants in the early part of the year respond to the increasing amount of daylight - they are called long day plants. Some others don't care, and they are just day neutral..

It really is fascinating the way that plants respond to their trigger messages - and I am always in awe of how Nature is so smart!

I hope that this helps!
Auntie Planty

  • Posted: Sun. 15th August 2010 17:46

Re: Irrigate pots?

Message from Valerie Munro

In forum: Container gardening

Hi Paula

Welcome to the world of pots! Actually, it really is surprising just how much you can successfully grow in a container, as opposed to planting out in the garden proper. The only thing that I will say is that you will have to be extremely vigilant on keeping your pots well hydrated. I'm afraid that your plants will be entirely at your mercy in the amount of water they can source, and pots have a very nasty habit of drying out very quickly, even in moderately warm weather.

The process is all driven by transpiration - plants will lose water through their leaves, and the hotter the air, the quicker this will happen - this then sends a message down to the roots to replace the water and if it isn't in the pot, then that's when the trouble starts and you can end up with very dried out soil. Once you get to this extreme, it is very very difficult to rehydrate.

However, the good news is that you are thinking of a watering system. I haven't actually tried the Aquapod system, but in principle it looks reasonably effortless to operate once it has been set up.

However, I do know about the water retaining crystals. Originally they were produced for use in pots, but now I am using them when planting into the garden. When starting a new hole, you mix them through the soil as you would mix flour and sugar in a recipe. When applying to already planted subjects, I try and poke deepish holes in a circle around the plant, taking care not to damage the roots. I then drizzle in a pinch or two (no more) into each. There is no doubt that when they swell up with water, they will hang on to it long enough for the plant to access it.

I would certainly start off with crystals and see how you go.

I hope that this helps - please let us know how you fare

Good luck
Auntie Planty

  • Posted: Tue. 3rd August 2010 07:02

Re: Re: Advice on building a pebble garden

Message from Isabel

In forum: Garden design

Hi Katy,
Thanks for your message. It was very helpful and gave me a better idea of the requirements for this.
I'm still concerned with the drainage and how should I insulate the floor/container.
I was thinking I could use something like a pond liner membrane. Is this a good idea?

  • Posted: Thu. 22nd July 2010 16:28

Re: Large Apple Tree - making it a focus

Message from Sue Tallents

In forum: Garden design

A long time ago we extended our drive around a large Prunus Kansan which we were not particularly fond of but we couldn't bring ourselves to chop it down. The excavations exposed a large root just below ground level which had to be sawn off. The addition of the base of scalpings plus the gravel created very different conditions for the roots, and inevitably it went downhill rapidly and we soon decided to do the decent thing and put it out of its misery. The message I have is that having removed the shrubs and replaced them with gravel or tarmac, your apple tree will have much hotter and drier growing conditions even if you only excavate outside the spread of the branches. I would recommend retaining the exact existing ground level around the tree within the spread of the branches without disturbance, and mulching and watering for the first two years or so. Snowdrops aconites and anemones planted underneath would give you winter interest, without disturbing the soil too much or burdening the canopy with extra weight. Good luck!

  • Posted: Mon. 28th June 2010 14:49

Re: Acer Problem

Message from Mark Gregory

In forum: Garden Landscaping and Design Forum Event

Acers can be difficult to get established, and water either too much or not enough can be an issue.the tree was on a measured daily dosage and now it is not.possibly it is likely to be too much.possible other problems can be the siting.ie is it in full sun,it has been very hot and although that form of acer will tolerate full sun,it sounds like it could be sun burn.(yes the bark can actually get sunburn,) make sure it is in a more sheltered spot..reflected light.off glass or a mirror for instance can also sometimes add to this effect.
make sure you apply a good depth of mulch around the bottom of the tree. approx 600mm diameter, use well rotton manure / compost..this will insulate the roots both in winter and summer and control the moisture around the roots much better...also check that the tree is not planted too deep?..better to lift it up 50mm from the surrounding ground level..even if it is buried a small amount this can stress and even kill a tree..
Best of luck..
Mark Gregory.

  • Posted: Thu. 17th June 2010 16:46

Re: Re: Re: Re: strange shoots

Message from Bar lawson

In forum: Rosa 'Maigold'

I'll do my best to get a photobraph of them if they dare to grow back.
Katy this is the first time I've used'shoot' and I've managed to reply to your helpfull message but I can't get the other replies I've received up on the screen, so I'm unable to read or send replies, could you help?
Thankyou, Bar

  • Posted: Tue. 15th June 2010 19:30

Re: Re: Trellis

Message from Andrew Tomes

In forum: Garden Landscaping and Design Forum Event

I think the best company is Stuart Architectual trellisage but the stuff in the photo was put together by a local fence maker /woodworker to my spec. Very easy.. 75mm openings ie 100mm centred tile batten 25mm x 32mm preesure treated.. to what ever shape you want.

  • Posted: Tue. 1st June 2010 18:57

Re: Re: mulberry tree

Message from Laura Thomas

In forum: Morus nigra

Glad to help - Kathy C gives very good advice above so I guess we'll be root pruning and/or buying bigger and bigger containers to manage our Mulberry trees. Still that's the future - for now mine is still young enough to share a pot with 'Hot Lips' sage - pic to follow!

  • Posted: Mon. 31st May 2010 09:32