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Search Results for "Garrya elliptica"

Re: Re: Diseased garrya elliptica


In forum: Garrya elliptica

Hello Kathy

Please see attached photos. Right on both counts, clay soil snad excessive rain. I attach (quite blurred) photo of cut stem as requested, and various shots showing the extent of die back. Thanks fpor your help.Regards, Caroline

  • Posted: Thu. 13th September 2012 21:10

Re: Diseased garrya elliptica


In forum: Garrya elliptica

Thanks for this Cathy. We are on London clay and have experienced heavt rain ( who hasn't?) I'll cut oinot a branch and send on some photos in the next few days. Regards, Caroline

  • Posted: Thu. 6th September 2012 21:09

Re: Diseased garrya elliptica

Message from Kathy C

In forum: Garrya elliptica

Hi, Caroline,
I'm sorry you're having trouble with your Garrya. Garry needs very well-drained soil. If not, it will suffer dieback. Are you in an area that has had more rain than usual (hard to escape it in the UK this year!). Also, is it planted in clay soil? That could very well be causing the dieback. Only other thought is some sort of internal fungus/disease. Have you checked the cut end of affected branches to see if there are any dark or black rings in the wood? If so, it may have a disease (though I am really not convinced on this because they aren't usually plagued with diseased like that). Any chance you could post a photo of the shrub and the damage?
Kathy C

  • Posted: Thu. 6th September 2012 17:22

Diseased garrya elliptica


In forum: Garrya elliptica

My garrya elliptica is approx 3m tall and 4m wide, and has been healthly and produced beautiful tassles for several years now. During August this year 2012 entire branches have sytarted dying back, while others are healthy and producing next spring's tassles. Die back is spreading repidly through to main trunk, also resulting in extrensive leaf fall. Any advice?

  • Posted: Wed. 5th September 2012 21:26

Re: Re: Re: Need help with shade planting under trees, please.

Message from Linsey Evans

In forum: Garden design

Vitis coignetiae is wonderful - loves the shade, huge leaves (non fruiting), fab autumn colour - deciduous, but worth it. I've also grown Vitis vinifera atropurpurea in shade too. Clematis armandii will either grow fabulously or die - it's a bit like that, it should do really well in dry shade and sometimes does, but sometimes just doesn't (for no discernable reason). Someone else has said hydrangea petiolaris which is perfect. Loads of Clematis will grow in the shade - check on Shoot check labels to see which ones won't mind. Trachelospermum jasminoides will grow in shade and is a great (eventually vigorous) evergreen climber with white scented flowers in summer. I have also grown Actinidia kolomikta (fab leaves which look like they've been dipped in sugar pink paint) in shade - it's worth a go as its such a good plant. Wisteria will grow in shade. Itea illicifolia is a wall shrub with long catkins (like garrya) which will grow in shade but is a bit of a slow starter.

How about some flowering quince (Chaenomeles) 'Geisha Girl' is pretty if you don't want red or orange. Or a nicely trimmed cotoneaster is predictable, but pretty. You can also train Garrya elliptica as a wall shrub and it looks fantastic - great tassels for winter interest, grey leaves - it's a bit slow to establish.

If I think of any others I'll post again.


  • Posted: Mon. 23rd January 2012 08:02

Re: Re: Pruning Garrya elliptica

Message from Ruth

In forum: Garrya elliptica

Hi Cathy,
Thank you for your help. I added this earlier today, so should get instructions, as you say. I think I must have left it too long after flowering last time.

  • Posted: Mon. 1st November 2010 21:59

Re: Pruning Garrya elliptica

Message from Kathy C

In forum: Garrya elliptica

Hi, Ruth,
Your Garrya is in pruning group 8 - these are evergreen shrubs that flower between winter and early summer on previous or current year's growth. Pruning should be kept to a minimum and done right after flowering. If pruned in spring, you will be cutting flower buds and consequently, have reduced flowering. Have you added this to your 'Plants I Have' list. If so, you will get detailed instructions on best maintenance practices for this plant.
Kathy C.

  • Posted: Mon. 1st November 2010 19:41

Pruning Garrya elliptica

Question from Ruth

In forum: Garrya elliptica

I'm training mine against a fence, and wonder about the best time to prune, as I've pruned before and lost the catkins.

  • Posted: Mon. 1st November 2010 13:11

My camelia EG Waterhouse is "drying"

Question from Joanne

In forum: Camellia x williamsii 'E.G. Waterhouse'

Buds on my camelia this spring have not really opened, but were dropping off. Normally the bush was covered in blooms. It's aprox 15-20 yrs old. In Aug noticed that whole branches were dried up, with leaves totally dried up and brown, I have pruned camelias before and know they respond well to it. so have given my EG W a "hair cut"! But now notice that more leaves,previously green are turning brown again.
It is planeted in a bed running along a wall seperating my garden from the park, and is west facing, so gets some sun from prob midday for a few hrs, then is in a shadow of the house and again gets some sun in the late afternoon.
Our soil is clay, but it has been thoroughly dug over, incorporating lots of compost and grovel for drainage, and all camelias and azaleas were planted in ericaceous soil and are fed with azalea plant food in spring and are watered with soluble ericaceous plant food every so often.
NB - Approx 3-4 yrs ago a Garrya elliptica (6 yrs old) groving 3 meters from this camelia has also dried up and died. But it had some kind of "fungal growth" at the very bottom of the trunk on the soil level, which looked like pencil-thick shiny light pinky brown protrusions. I took some photos and sent to Gardeners World magazine with a question, but never got an answer. Please note that other plants in that area have not been effected - mahonia, pyracantha, ferns, pachysandra terminalis, foxgloves and epimedium. I have removed and disposed of most of the soil from that immediate area where garrya was planted.
Is there any chance of saving it?

  • Posted: Sun. 19th September 2010 09:59

Re: Moving a garrya elliptica


In forum: Garrya elliptica

The best time to move this shrub is late september and reduce the height by half, try and get a reasonably sized root ball when lifting.


Alistair @ The Fertile Earth Consultancy

  • Posted: Wed. 23rd June 2010 06:51

Moving a garrya elliptica

Question from Catherine Burchmore

In forum: Garrya elliptica

Can anyone advise me if I would b successful in moving my garrya elliptica bush (about 2 metres high) to another area of the garden as it has and will grow too large where it is? If so when or is it ill advised? It is a very healthy plant and would hate to lose it! Hope someone can help! Cathyx

  • Posted: Mon. 21st June 2010 11:59

Planting ideas

Message from Kathy C

In forum: Garden design

Hi, Sarah,
I am so pleased to read you are keeping your Cotinus - one of my favourites! It sounds like the rest of the existing plants were never happy (or in the case of the Cotoneaster, too happy) where they were. The only other one I would consider keeping is the Forsythia. If much of the old wood is removed, it might just rejuvenate nicely.
Some suggestions for your plot:
In the dark area, perhaps something evergreen with pale or white flowers to brighten that corner. Some choices could be:
- Garrya elliptica - gets large so will fill that space nicely. Pale green cascading flowers are lovely.
- Escallonia 'Iveyi' - one of th few white flowering ones
- Tried and true Rhododendron - little pruning, evergreen and loads of cultivars to choose from
- Viburnus tinus - another 'tried and true'
- Osmanthus - many different species - all evergreen with holly-like leaves on most
- Speaking of holly, perhaps for the front of the bed some Ilex x meserveae - dark leaves, berries if you have a male and female. Maybe plant a group of three?
For the rest of the bed, I picture plants that will take turns blooming/showing interest. Perhaps:
- Hamamelis - not too exciting in summer, but I love the spidery yellow flowers on bare branches in late winter.
- Cornus alba - any of the red-twigged. They will need to be cut back once a year to maintain the red stems, but if you get someone in to prune, they only need to do it once.
- Perovskia - can be treated as a perennial or a shrub.
- Ilex verticillata - deciduous - needs a male and female but gorgeous red berries covering the branches - birds love them!
Climber suggestions:
- Clematis cirrhosa - my number one favourite Clematis - blooms late winter/early spring and evergreen
- Parthenocissus henryana - gorgeous leaves and though deciduous, great autumn colour.

I think I am running out of room but if I come up with more, I will post them. Please let me know what you decide have planted.
Kathy C

  • Posted: Thu. 6th May 2010 15:25

Shrub border ideas

Message from Kathy C

In forum: Trees and shrubs

Hi, Mundy
It is quite daunting coming up with a planting plan for a large space -there are so many plants to choose from and so many design aspects to consider. What I have usually do is to first think about what will go in the conditions I have - in your case, shade-tolerant, exposed but with the benefit of a wall that gets some afternoon sun. Then, do you want evergreen, deciduous, or a combinaton of the two? A flower colour scheme or primarily foliage? To make sure there is something blooming each month, I make a grid with 12 columns (one for each month) and then write the plant names I think I want under the months in which they flower. Any spaces tells me I need to find something for those months. Some of my favourites for your are situation:
Garrya elliptica - evergreen with interesting, pendant flowers, big so needs pruning to keep it under 5ft
Skimmia japonica - loads of cultivars out there, compact, evergreen, flowers, berries and won't get too tall.
Crinodendron patagua - a bit tender, but against a wall should do okay - lovely, white, bell-shaped flowers in late summer
Any cultivar of Hydrangea quercifolia - deciduous, large leaves, great autumn colour and beautiful upright flowers that look great even dried in winter!
Prunus laurocersus 'Otto Luyken' - evergreen, large glossy leaves and remains fairly low
Osmanthus - so many to choose from and evergreen!
As far as your favs go, most Photinia, Deutzia, and Viburnum will tolerate partial shade. Daphne laureola and Daphne pontica will tolerate shade, with Daphne x burkwoodii doing okay in the spot that gets sun. Abelia and Potentilla need full sun so I would steer clear of them for this spot.
For more ideas, do an advanced search under the plant search tab on this site, choosing the attributes you want.
Books I have found useful are:
Perfect Plant, Perfect Place by Roy Lancaster
RHS Plants for Places
RHS What Plant When
Hope this is helpful and let me know what you come up with.
Kathy C.

  • Posted: Mon. 17th November 2008 12:50

Shady privacy

Message from Fi

In forum: Garden design

I would try Garrya Elliptica - it's evergreen and has lovely dangling fronds of seed. It likes shade too.
Otherwise try one of the viburnums - bodnantese dawn or similar.

  • Posted: Wed. 19th September 2007 13:55