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Ruskins Trees's forum posts

Total number of forum posts: 27


Re: Acers to be moved

from Ruskins Trees

I would be happy to discuss how to move these.

  • Posted: Sat. 5th March 2016 15:07

Re: Is holly safe to grow next to a house?

from Ruskins Trees

You need the advice of a Tree Consultant. If you keep it small, it will have little influence, if you let it grow it will have a larger influence. If you are on shrinkable clay and the foundations your house is on will also have a input.

  • Posted: Sun. 15th November 2015 10:01

Re: planting 80 oak trees

from Ruskins Trees

It is not just the root growth, it is the ability of the roots to draw moisture across the soil from under the wall and house. The main concern over this is if you have shrinkable clay, which is desiccated in summer (shrinks) and swells (when moist in winter).

If not clipped these will mature eventually into massive majestic trees (google Quercus ilex images). If you restrict their canopy size on an on-going basis you also restrict their moisture requirements. A Tree Consultant could advise you on this risk.

They can make excellent clipped aerial hedges, we have supplied and planted many, Please request aftercare guidelines and planting instructions from your supplier, the trees will need assistance establishing for at lease 5 summers as per BS8545:2014.

It will be a dense functional screen, if a bit monochrome, but you can plant more ornamental specimens in front and these will be enhanced by the plain background.

You could install a root barrier (if the right product is used and installed correctly - there are a lot of "root barriers" that are not deep enough to have the desired effect) to stop the wicking of moisture across the soil from the wall/house.

  • Posted: Sun. 15th November 2015 09:19

Re: Transplanting a dogwood

from Ruskins Trees

We are Tree & Shrub Movers and planters.

However the most important aspect is to recognise that being in the soil* is the natural place for plants and being a container is completely un-natural and stressful, even cruel.

On this basis the earliest you can get it into the soil and plant it at the level it was in the container the better.

Do not undertake this when the soil is frozen.

The optimum time to do this is as soon as the heat has dissipated from summer, as the Dogwood will have the longest time to begin to get established** prior the following summer. The closer you get to summer, incrementally the less favourable it becomes, but it is still better to get it into the ground, rather than retain it in the un-natural container.

Once it is in the ground, you will need to assist it in establishing by watering for at least three years when it is dry, I would also mulch it (but not up the trunk, 3" deep as wide as you can).

* Assuming your soil is OK, i.e. not waterlogged or too unhelpful (thin, alkaline (chalky), acidic or heavy clay - this is not the end of the world if you have this, you just need to mitigate)

*** established is when the Dogwood can look after itself and has regrown a natural root system.

If you have to keep it in a container, use Air Pot, if you don't like the look of Air Pot, as long as you keep an air gap, you can put something around it. If you must keep it in a normal container (or even with an Air Pot container), Let the roots grow into the ground by removing the base of creating large holes in the base,

Set it free! Plant it!

  • Posted: Sun. 15th November 2015 09:09

Re: Pollarding a crataegus laevigata 'Plena'

from Ruskins Trees

Whilst Hawthorn can be cut back hard, I would be nervous about pollarding it to one knuckle. If too much is removed it could stress the tree to the point of failure. Pollarding is when you take it back to the trunk with no branches, it can also be an extended pollard where you take individual branches back to where they have no branches.

Pollarding is an extreme form of management. You would have to manage on an on going cycle, where year 1 is no foliage..... Can you not just hedge the tree at the height you require?

  • Posted: Sun. 17th August 2014 18:24

Re: Robinia Pseudoacacia Lace Lady Tree Twisted Dwarf Black Locust Trees

from Ruskins Trees

Moving trees is easy if you have the right equipment!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJHsXBJXqt0

The vast majority of trees we move are not root prepared or crown reduced before transplanting. We move them with sufficient root mass, supported by aftercare to achieve a success rate in excess of 97%.

If you are moving the tree yourself, I recommend you root prune 2-3 times prior to moving. All works should be undertaken Sept-March. The tree will require watering after root pruning. It would really benefit from (UK sourced) Mycorrhizal fungi application and mulching. When you come to move it, keep the rootball together using natural fabric and if required non galvanised wire.

After transplanting water for 2-3 summers, keep up with the mulch.

I am not familiar with this variety. I know that Robinia pseudoacacia Frisia suffers from a disease (Robinia Progress) that may wipe them all out. It would be worth checking if your tree is susceptible to this.

You are welcome to call us for advice.

Robert

  • Posted: Sun. 28th April 2013 16:26

Re: Ceanothus removal

from Ruskins Trees

Used to share an office with our Tree Surgery Company, normally without fail we would get one of these phone calls after a weekend, where someone had spent all weekend trying to dig a stump out, only to be defeated.

They would then phone us to see about stump grinding.

You could use a small digger to claw it out bit by bit.

It is a stump, it is designed to stay in the ground!

If you cannot use stump grinder or digger:

Leave the stump tall, to use as a lever. Use long metal bars as levers. Use an axe of the roots. Keep going, you will defeat it or it may defeat you.

  • Posted: Sat. 1st September 2012 13:44

Re: Is My Plum Tree Dead ?

from Ruskins Trees

If transplanted and cared for correctly, a transplanted tree will establish.

If the process has stressed the tree to much, it will react. It may dieback to reduce its canopy to compensate for its reduced root system. Check the cambium to establish if this has occurred, lightly scrape the bark in areas of concern, a thin green layer should be visible, if alive, just under the bark.

The tree may have dropped leaves to reduce transpiration. It may re-flush this year with new leaves.

  • Posted: Sun. 26th August 2012 16:41

Re: Young new Conifers going brown. One completely brown after 2 wks.

from Ruskins Trees

Should not die for no reason!

Are they planted at the correct depth? Same level as they were in their pots.

Is the ground waterlogged ? - stick a cane into the ground, pull it out, does it smell of stagnant water

Have you checked the cambium? (just below the surface of the bark, lightly scrape if tree alive in that area, there should be a thin green layer)

Place a white piece of paper underneath a piece of foliage that is 'turning' - losing its lustre. Gentle shake, aphids may fall, that are sucking the life out of that area.

Have you mulched so that it extends up the trunk? If so clear area around trunk.

What soil do you have, is it acidic etc?

Please let me know, I will try and help.

Robert

  • Posted: Sun. 26th August 2012 16:24

Re: Optimum size for buying trees?

from Ruskins Trees

Most garden centres do not offer trees over 12-14cm girth, to get a selection of larger trees you need to go to specialist large tree growers, such as us.

With regard to size, with aftercare all will establish. The optimum depends on the size you need it and your budget. The cost of trees increases exponentially with size. It is often more pleasing to the eye to plant a range of sizes.

With regard to planting the grower should provide you with planting and aftercare guidelines (if they don't I suggest you avoid them). The trees will need staking and would benefit from mulching (3" deep, 3" clear around the trunk and 3" (more like 3ft if you can), slow release fertilizer and root grow (mycorrhizal fungi).

With aftercare, it is true the larger the tree, the longer the aftercare will be required. Watering is the most important aspect, but developing an empathy for the tree is vital.

The selection of the variety of tree is critical, I suggest you discuss this with the supplier, ask for pictures, if you cannot inspect the tree, you have to chose the right tree for the right location. Once the variety of tree is selected request a quote for a range of sizes, then sit down with a cup of tea and reflect on your choice. Do not rush the choice, the selection will resound through the generations!

Trees will be offered as bareroot Nov-Mar (only for smaller trees & plant as early in this time period as possible), rootballed Nov-Mar (for a much wider range of sizes) and container grown. Avoid trees grown in black pots (roots gridle), white/green/black woven bags are good but Air Pot trees are the highest quality, due to their v fibrous, nutrient packed root system. With regard to the success of each form bareroot is the most risky and have to be handled with great care to prevent roots drying out.

With all planting the optimum time is autumn as they then have the longest period prior to summer to begin to establish.

  • Posted: Tue. 5th June 2012 07:56